Jump to content
  • Sign Up
jazz

Speaker repair help

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, jazz said:

Hi folk a spare soundlab speaker as gone very quite are they easy to strip without damaging anything to inspect inside thanx jazz 

IMG_5011.JPG

Wouldn't imagine there's much to damage inside.  Take the back off, remove the wadding and you'll be able to see the back of each driver, the crossover unit and all interconnecting wiring.  Just look for anything obvious like loose connections or burnt out components on the crossover.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Steve S 60 said:

Wouldn't imagine there's much to damage inside.  Take the back off, remove the wadding and you'll be able to see the back of each driver, the crossover unit and all interconnecting wiring.  Just look for anything obvious like loose connections or burnt out components on the crossover.

Cheers steve will have ago then 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take main driver off, lots more room to look around inside. 

 Very strange for a main driver to go, the tweeter on those cheap speakers usually blow.  £2 from maplins. 

 Another tip, to stop them blowing, solder a (certain Hz) resistor on the positive side. Works a treat .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/11/2017 at 12:49, IanP said:

Take main driver off, lots more room to look around inside. 

 Very strange for a main driver to go, the tweeter on those cheap speakers usually blow.  £2 from maplins. 

 Another tip, to stop them blowing, solder a (certain Hz) resistor on the positive side. Works a treat .

Ohms dear boy, but I know what you mean, Adding a series resistor greatly improves most uses of piezoelectric tweeters usually about 47 ohms with a 10/25 watt rating, don't worry that you have a higher powered amp as the bass & midrange speakers take the brunt of the power so a 10/25 watt resistor is fine in series with the piezos.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The main drivers normally only go if overdriven, the voicecoil gets overheated and burns the lacquer coating on the copperwire coil causing it to short circuit or in some cases just stick around the magnet stopping movement of the cone. another cause is a faulty amp output where the output transistor goes DC causing coil problems as already described, the transistors overheating normally cause this, most modern amps are fan assisted cooling now anyway and most use Mosfets which run at a higher temperature without problems.

  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Comment now!

Comments are members only

Sign Up

Join Soul Source - Free & easy!

Sign up now!

Sign in

Sign in here.

Sign in now!

Adverts



×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.