Jump to content
Archive

Northern Soul Fashion Revival - Footwear Solatio OR Brogue

Recommended Posts

The crossover shoe was to become the Northern Soul shoe to be wearing on the dance floor casinos of the Midlands and North. With their low profile and wider shape they co-ordinated with the wide leg trousers which were ubiquitous at the time. Throughout the first half of the seventies decade Solatio shoes dominated and influenced the men’s shoe scene in the UK and their personality is etched in a generations memory.

Brogues were traditionally considered to be outdoor or country footwear not otherwise appropriate for casual or business occasions, but brogues are now considered appropriate in most context, however this shoe with its comfort is worn across soul nights and all nighters across the country. 

The question is what shoes do wear when you hit the dance floor for 7 hours of pure magical music? I would love to Know!

 

image.png.67ed4b37ee4594f8904fd383a709fb65.pngSOLATIO SHOE

 

     Image resultBROGUE SHOE

Edited by Archive

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We used to get a plain cherry coloured shoe from the army stores, leather upper and souls, and were quite cheap.

Of course the 'crowd' used to get these:

Some plain black, and some multi coloured.

Ed

Screenshot_20171111-180413.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brogues were traditionally considered to be skinhead wear in the 70’s and the bizzness with a crombie - leather soled versions were ideal for dancing on wooden floors. For a time in the mid-to-late 70’s, the ‘crossover’ style featured above and the Neale ‘toecap’ variant were almost Wigan uniform.

Brogues are still the order of the day - leather if the floor is a good ‘un and we’re carrying a bag, or an oldpair of Rockport brogues with a smooth crepe sole for wading through beer on tiles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the responses ... Keep the Faith

On 11/10/2017 at 16:24, Archive said:

The Northern Soul style revival is fast turning into a new generation via those among the thousands of teenagers who danced to the same beat in the north of England in the 1970s, keeping the faith has never been a question of trends. Aspects of the club goers’ style was similarly inherited: early fashion a classic mod style, like Fred Perry button-down shirts, smart brogues and Levi’s shrink-to-fit shinnies. Oxford , Spencer bags and Sportswear was worn in the ballrooms and halls that hosted Northern Soul club nights in the late 60s and 70s, they were a matter of practicality. 

The question is do you remember what you worn on the dance floors then and now ? I would love to hear this ...... Keep the Faith

Northern Soul dance subculture Menswear Topman SS16

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its well documented on this site what was worn in the 70s and some folks have gone back to those styles today.

Obviously it's a free choice, but for me I don't feel the need to 'dress up ' the same way as I did back then.

I certainly appreciate talcum powder more now than back then to help the extra pounds try and dance the same way:)

I see a lot of hats worn now, which is a kind of new addition. Probably to disguise the focally challenged members as much as a fashion accessory.

Ed

Edited by tomangoes
Spello

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, Archive said:

Hey Zed, was sportswear mixed with bags for men a big thing in the 70's northern soul scene?

Plenty of us wore a pair of Adidas Samba's to dance in at Wigan, but this wasn't part of any 'uniform' that set us apart, just another fashion of the day.

If you look at pictures from the scene in the early 80's, ie the end of Wigan/ Start of Stafford period you see People with Wedge Haircuts dressed in Pegs, baggy Shirts and Loafers, but no one ever describes this as 'Northern Soul Fashion' mainly because they just go with the default stereotype 'This England' image of a Guy with big Flares and a long leather dragging around an Adidas bag.

Edited by Zed1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A lot of "Soulies " also wear loafers, not necessary tassle loafers but ones without i think the correct name is penny loafers.Imo I think look dead smart.not the most comfortable of shoes though as they're solid and chunky.

Regards fred

Edited by Mr Fred

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎12‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 20:16, Zed1 said:

Plenty of us wore a pair of Adidas Samba's to dance in at Wigan, but this wasn't part of any 'uniform' that set us apart, just another fashion of the day.

If you look at pictures from the scene in the early 80's, ie the end of Wigan/ Start of Stafford period you see People with Wedge Haircuts dressed in Pegs, baggy Shirts and Loafers, but no one ever describes this as 'Northern Soul Fashion' mainly because they just go with the default stereotype 'This England' image of a Guy with big Flares and a long leather dragging around an Adidas bag.

 I do miss my long leather mind you it didn't keep you warm... :wink:  :)   

10492296_379467608897226_1725645264838031773_n.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Bruv, I thought the Parka and the Harrington was the look ? Was the long leather coat something worn in the 70's ?  I don't see many people wearing in today soul scene.. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, Archive said:

Hey Bruv, I thought the Parka and the Harrington was the look ? Was the long leather coat something worn in the 70's ?  I don't see many people wearing in today soul scene.. 

Leather coats were very popular mid seventies but as stated earlier it was a fashion thing not just related to the soul scene.

Probably not worn today because with the large chest sizes and expanding waists they would be very expensive with the amount of leather used :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, shinehead said:

Leather coats were very popular mid seventies but as stated earlier it was a fashion thing not just related to the soul scene.

Probably not worn today because with the large chest sizes and expanding waists they would be very expensive with the amount of leather used :thumbsup:

I remember back in the mid 70ts down petticoat lane London there were racks and racks of long leather coats black and brown were the main colours- so yes it was a fashion generally at the time what made it different on the scene was the leather coats were right down to the ankles - they looked the nuts - I had (still got it, don't fit) an oxblood patch work long leather coat from Dave pinks Cambridge cost £49 - also a pair of patch work jean bags (still got them don't fit) which weighed a ton - I had one pocket at the back with elastic cotton so I could stash gear - shoes were DM lace up great for dancing the sole was smooth - I threw them out about about 5 years ago as the missus said why do you want to keep them - I took the laces out, still got em - don't ask me why.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Z, as I am a 80's Kid, and was not lucky enough to go to the all nighters in the 70'S, I worn my Bags , Brogues and vest. The jacket of choice and still is today is the Parka.

So was the leather coat a London trend that the Northern Soul Scene took in during the 70's ?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Long leathers were worn all over - they were certainly sold in London as were leather box jackets which were worn by the masses disco crowd and the leather bomber 

Similar to thouse in the pics - I can't remember anyone wearing a parka that's not to say they've weren't worn until about 81 the mod revival started - in all the years I went to the Casino 75 - 81    I saw less than half a dozen scooters in the left hand side car park - coaches and cars were parked across the road.

IMG_9261.JPG

IMG_9262.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Archive said:

Hi Z, as I am a 80's Kid, and was not lucky enough to go to the all nighters in the 70'S, I worn my Bags , Brogues and vest. The jacket of choice and still is today is the Parka.

So was the leather coat a London trend that the Northern Soul Scene took in during the 70's ?  

Just for reference Brogues were sometimes called Royals - this could be a southern thing but you would have a "nice pair of Royals"

LOAKE Royal Brogue - Black

Black

 

IMG_9263.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Z , Thank you for coming back to me and now am even more gutted I was not around in the early days. Royals I have never heard of this , and from all the images and footage in the 70's it shows scooter boys everywhere? 

Wow did not no this was the case. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎11‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 18:09, tomangoes said:

We used to get a plain cherry coloured shoe from the army stores, leather upper and souls, and were quite cheap.

Of course the 'crowd' used to get these:

Some plain black, and some multi coloured.

Ed

 

Remember the Oxblood colour shoe from the Army Stores very well . They were a big fave of the soul crowd around Derbyshire and Notts. I remember pestering my mother until she bought me a pair....even though they didn't fit me .....just had to have them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't comment on scooter boys of the 70ts - was very blinked with NS and football styles were all over the place tartan was everywhere high waist trousers and Levi staypress dm boots - for scooter info from the 70ts and pictures would contact Mansfield Monsters one of the long yearn respected clubs also the Scunthorpe pathfinders or A5 from Aldershot talk to the old guys , am sure there'll have plenty of tales to tell - be lucky 

http://www.mansfielddetoursscooterclub.com/mansfield-monsters-sc.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, ZoomSoulBlue said:

Just for reference Brogues were sometimes called Royals - this could be a southern thing but you would have a "nice pair of Royals"

LOAKE Royal Brogue - Black

Black

 

IMG_9263.JPG

They had to be this style...........full pattern around the shoe. The other kind were not really respected. Big banana seg in the heel and the colour had to be black.

 

Ed 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was there ever a time when the sole of the shoe had like the steel under the toe. Almost like a tap dancing shoe. I have herd that people danced with these types of shoes when stomping they would make a louder noise. Or is this just a blagg?

 

image.png.776a8b20faf9b14c7a74daed91aeff7c.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never saw that much sophistication on the toe on anybodies hoofs, but at about 12 years old we would fill the whole shoe with segs, so you could run and slide on the corsey.

Ed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where I grew up we called shoes Royals (or Royle's) that were the same boxy type of shoes as the brogues (which i think were roomier in height than today's examples) but without the "decoration", hence a completely smooth finish with 8 or 10 eyelets. They had quite a thick sole, probably double the standard leather sole of that era (local cobblers would replace the thin standard sole of the cheapo copies of these shoes, and do what they called "clumping", which was to attach a double thickness sole. This look became "de rigueur" for a while, and I swear contributed to getting some of us younger lads into venues because we looked older because we were a bit taller ;-)  )
Available in Light Brown, Dark Brown, and Black, probably the most popular colour was an almost purple shade of ox blood red. They were more a lot more expensive than standard brogues and I only knew of two shops that sold them, one an old fashioned gents outfitters, and the other was Eddies in Wolverhampton. Well known scene face Esher worked in Eddies and would advise us on fashion. This was right at the cutting edge of fashion and was the first place I saw Ben Shermans, Solatios, Skinners, etc
The first long leather i ever saw was supposedly made by Paul Smith, who went on to become a fashion icon. At the time (start of the 70's ?) he was in Notts, and the older lads said he'd make you one if you paid upfront and went over to see him. Within a year you could buy them at loads of shops and markets, and I think this is a point people get wrong. It wasn't that folk at Northern doo's were following fashion of the day, some were leading it, with many items being made to measure and styled by the buyer, and soon after the rag trade jumped on the style and knocked out copies for the mass market.
The short leather "Budgie" jackets were much more popular than the long full length, probably because they were more affordable and could be bought in a wide range of colours and styles, but remember fashion sometimes took five years to get from the leaders to the followers. Baggy trousers is a perfect example, 36, 40 & 42 wide were from 71-72, yet some corners of the UK were wearing them in 81, thinking, sadly, that they were "trendy". We wore very wide sailors trousers from the Army surplus, by buying the longest leg they had you got the widest, and with a pair of all leather RAF shoes (which were great for dancing) and the outfit could cost less than ten bob (feb 71 was when decimalisation came in, so there's a clue)
Popular addition to your leather shoes, to save wearing them out, was a steel horseshoe,  which followed the contour of your heel, but if you wanted them to last had to be done by cobblers when they did your replacement clump sole. Segs were the cheapo alternative, but were prone to dropping out. The horseshoes did have a habit of developing a very sharp edge, which could dig into a dance floor and cause you to do a comical sideways fall when trying to chase the beat to Who Who Song :)
Fashion, turn to the left ;-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 19/11/2017 at 11:18, Archive said:

Hey Bruv, I thought the Parka and the Harrington was the look ? Was the long leather coat something worn in the 70's ?  I don't see many people wearing in today soul scene.. 

Parka was a scooter boys coat of choice.  Barracuta Harrington was the choice of the rich soulies.  Copies of which where worn by the masses including myself.  We couldn't afford them. 

Full length leathers. My first one in 1975 cost £17. On credit at I think £1.00 per week . 2nd  one was I think £29. Much better quality.  

Steve 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most kids at school in the 7ts had Blakeys if you got enough in you're shoes you could glide down the school corridors - 2 guys from my school robbed a bus conductor stole the money and gave the guy a kicking - the bloke who stamped on the bus conductors head left an imprint of "Blakey" and was traced back - Duhhhhhhhh never saw the two guys in school again. 

IMG_9286.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, ZoomSoulBlue said:

Budgie jackets - not sure if they were a carry on slang from the tv show Budgie 1971 - 1972

the collars use to be called spaniel or dog ear for obvious reasons

 

IMG_9287.PNG

absolutely, although we called the collars penny round (the bigger one) or half penny round for the smaller, more dog ear types. The shirts with those collars followed on as button down Ben Sherman's were going out. We continued to call every style of short colourful fitted leather jackets Budgie for ages, until the popularity of big loose bomber jacket (not sure, would they have come in at the start of the 80's, a.k. a. the Wigan/Stafford cusp ? - which incidentally is my favourite rare soul musical era, not sure which is my favourite fashion era, hmm?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, purist said:

 the other was Eddies in Wolverhampton. Well known scene face Esher worked in Eddies and would advise us on fashion. This was right at the cutting edge of fashion and was the first place I saw Ben Shermans, Solatios, Skinners, etc
 

I lived in Wolverhampton on and off between 1970 and 1974 and I really liked that shop. 

I think in this picture I'm wearing dark green Karmen Ghia cords and a grey V neck jumper - both from Eddie's

I also had some grey KG cords.

I had the same waist size as my gfriend here so we could both wear them.

Unisex.    LOL!    :wub::wub::wub:

 

jacky1a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I never had a full length leather coat. But as I think somebody said above long coats were just a general fashion item for a while. This was the best I could do. :)

And I recognise that jumper. Blue, crew neck - from Eddie's, Wolverhampton LOL!

 

 

 

jacky3a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And obviously the real deal came with made to measure breeks and jackets from burtons and jacksons

Two tone also got a revival around 75.

Happy days..

Ed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, tomangoes said:

They had to be this style...........full pattern around the shoe. The other kind were not really respected. Big banana seg in the heel and the colour had to be black.

 

Ed 

Thats known as a longwing.

 

the more common style is called a wingtip.

 

then the other key difference is if it is a derby or oxford.  Basically weather the vamp the piece with the laces meets at the bottom (a slimmer style imo) or stays apart in 2 seperate pieces (better if you have wider feet and look more chunky)

 

love brogues have a couple of pairs trickers and cheaneys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahhhhhhhh! Eddies!! I absolutely loved that shop - bought loads of stuff from there but it weren't cheap was it? When did it close? After there I used the Oasis market in Brum - lots of original stuff in there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, Archive said:

Was there ever a time when the sole of the shoe had like the steel under the toe. Almost like a tap dancing shoe. I have herd that people danced with these types of shoes when stomping they would make a louder noise. Or is this just a blagg?

 

image.png.776a8b20faf9b14c7a74daed91aeff7c.png

When you got your favourite leather soled shoes re-heeled you'd ask the cobbler for a quarter steel heel....

dscf6089.thumb.jpg.7cafb4ce8cf2b152a2fa21bd2eacbe7e.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I remember my uncle that went to Wigan and top of the world Stafford having this done to his shoes. They must have been comfortable. As I never saw him any over pairs of shoes. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Peter99 said:

No one has mentioned these have they?

post-1166-1217877661_thumb.jpg

 

 

They reissued these a few years ago or something very similar called them oberons.

 

dont think they make them anymore i havent seen them for a few years.

 

quirky but i quite like them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, dylan said:

They reissued these a few years ago or something very similar called them oberons.

 

dont think they make them anymore i havent seen them for a few years.

 

quirky but i quite like them.

Clarks Polyveldts. You could only buy em tan or brown so everyone used to dye them black. Looking back they were good for dancing but now I think they look shit!

:wicked:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, chalky said:

I couldn't take anyone who wore these serious as my headmaster wore them :lol:

Loads of people wore them mate. Thankfully, baggies and these were very short lived when I first started going. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Peter99 said:

Loads of people wore them mate. Thankfully, baggies and these were very short lived when I first started going. 

I know mate, they looked awful then and still do

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Peter99 said:

Me looking cool in me grey leather box jacket. Just after a Cleethorpes all niter - circa 1983

medium.gallery_5734_1244_322827.jpg.8d0860509dc6b7ae1db27561143bd26c.jpg

Your looking cool Peter, but your friend on the far left needed a larger sized tank top......Rob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, Lionelonthevinyl said:

Your looking cool Peter, but your friend on the far left needed a larger sized tank top......Rob

He was a big lad Rob! He wasn't a die hard like me and only did about a year's worth of all nitering. Lovely lad though - gentle giant. The girl next to me - Claire, she was my girlfriend at the time. Pretty girl - she went to live in a commune!

Pete

Edited by Peter99

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, dylan said:

They reissued these a few years ago or something very similar called them oberons.

 

dont think they make them anymore i havent seen them for a few years.

 

quirky but i quite like them.

Clark’s funny dreams look very similar & popular with nurses 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 19/11/2017 at 11:50, shinehead said:

Leather coats were very popular mid seventies but as stated earlier it was a fashion thing not just related to the soul scene.

Probably not worn today because with the large chest sizes and expanding waists they would be very expensive with the amount of leather used :thumbsup:

I recall long leather coats particularly being soul related in the mid 70’s - they were especially on show in Wigan 1975 onwards. Even leather jackets were not all that common outside the soul fraternity in the mid 70’s as they were relatively expensive - Christmas 1975, I got my first off the market for £21. If any of the general population was wearing leather, it was more likely to be a jacket rather than a trenchcoat.

Ultra long leather coats were custom made fir soulies in some cases as they were so hard to find - only the soul crowd wore these, sometimes almost touching the floor. My first leather trenchcoat cost £33 in the summer of 1976, reduced in price due to a small tear - although it went below the knee, it was still a foot shorter than I wanted it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cant vouch for everyone but the best dancer I have ever seem was at the Twisted Wheel and he was wearing Cuban heels.

Not see him for a while but watch this guy move !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, HXTFC1 said:

I cant vouch for everyone but the best dancer I have ever seem was at the Twisted Wheel and he was wearing Cuban heels.

Not see him for a while but watch this guy move !!

Right on. Joe public was wearing Cuban heels 1972, 1973, 1974 and perhaps a bit after. Brogues were the choice of skinheads, suedeheads, soulboys and country gents. The Allnighter population embraced leather trenchcoats, brogues, baggies in tweed or cord, cardigans, bowling shirts or singlets and a few wore a beret - I’ll let the ladies comment on what was worn by them at the time.

What was underground cult-gear soon became mainstream fashion with parallel trousers becoming wider and having side pockets, lace-up shoes replaced boots and Cuban heels, cardigans multiplied. I still think the look is fine today, for young and senior soulies, and cannot understand why it is criticised so much but perhaps that’s the media presenting sterotypes for you...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Comment now!

Comments are members only

Join Soul Source - Free & easy!

Sign up now!

Sign in here.

Sign in now!

Related Soul Music Links

×