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Martin S

Recycling Furniture For Records Storage

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Martin

Nice use of materials and recycling instead of ending up in landfill. I'd think it would be a good idea to use glue on the joints unless you want to take them apart. I find that MDF doesn't hold screws under pressure or splits when driving the screw in. If you make a few of these have you considered getting a biscuit jointer to connect the parts. What about painting them as this seems to be the thing at the moment. Using a face mask when sanding MDF is probably a good idea, not just Health & Safety gone mad.

Rick

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Rick Cooper said:

Martin, Nice use of materials and recycling instead of ending up in landfill. I'd think it would be a good idea to use glue on the joints unless you want to take them apart. I find that MDF doesn't hold screws under pressure or splits when driving the screw in. If you make a few of these have you considered getting a biscuit jointer to connect the parts. What about painting them as this seems to be the thing at the moment. Using a face mask when sanding MDF is probably a good idea, not just Health & Safety gone mad. Rick

Thanks for the compliments. Need to correct you on a few things Rick. I come from a background in construction and decorating so have a vast understanding of how different materials and tools interact. The units above were simple projects built from surplus materials but I have built approx 50 x MDF LP/12" units similar to/or same as those shown in the two photos below, both for myself and friends.

If you're builds are not holding the screws or the MDF is splitting, here's the likely reasons. You could be using incorrect drill bits, too large if not holding, too small if splitting, in combination with screws that are the wrong size for the pilot hole/drill bit size and/or thickness of the material being screwed into. You could be over or under drilling the hole length itself or not even doing it perfectly straight. In addition one has to consider the thickness of the MDF and the necessity to drill into it bang in the centre when end on. If you're drilling into 18mm MDF and the very tip of your bit is going in at 11mm from one edge, 7mm the other, then you're immediately increasing the likelihood of failure. Working with fine margins takes considerable practice and patience to get it right consistently. 

In a 3 rows high by 3 slots wide LP/12" rack, there would be approximately 70 screws of which around half will be used to fix the backing sheet. Start multiplying the numbers up and I will have drilled and screwed well over 3000 holes into 18mm MDF end on, yet I have never suffered a serious split, yes the occasional minor bulge which can often be repaired anyhow. I have never glued a single hole in any of those constructions because if you get the above issues right there's no need to.

There's hardly any sanding to do if the materials have been cut correctly at a timber merchants, just the edges to gently round off slightly as 90 degree edges of MDF can be very sharp. If I'm building a large unit I do it outdoors in warm weather, although if it's something for the loft then obviously it'll have to be done up there. I don't paint MDF record units. It's a difficult material to as it has a very smooth surface and requires several layers to get a good finish but one could consider a clear oil based varnish. Granted two units like those I started the thread with might not take a huge amount of time to paint, and I could understand it if you had kids or animals that would make a mess of the original finish, but for large units of multiple rows it's not practical. You also have to consider that water based paints are likely to cause MDF to swell.

Ones hands should always be clean when near records anyhow thus reducing the chances of damaging the original finish of the MDF. When I have visitors I pay attention to what they do with their hands. If they're continually playing with their face or hair pointlessly, thus transferring grease/oils on to them, I'll politely ask them to stop doing it and wash their hands immediately. If they were to feel offended by such then a lack of respect for maintaining the cleanliness of my possessions whilst on the premises suggests it's unlikely I'd need them here anyhow. Here's a few more units which might give people ideas about their own storage options:

P1080142.JPG

P1080144.JPG

Edited by Martin S

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i have  2 x Mission speaker cabs (no internals...long story from over 25 yrs ago and my children using pen's as nasty pointy things when the grills were off ) that i just couldn't bring myself to retire to the dump. And now i'm inspired to give it a go as record boxes.

cheers

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Kenb said:

i have  2 x Mission speaker cabs (no internals...long story from over 25 yrs ago and my children using pen's as nasty pointy things when the grills were off ) that i just couldn't bring myself to retire to the dump. And now i'm inspired to give it a go as record boxes. cheers

Hi, what are the internal dimensions and the thickness of the cabinet walls? 

Edited by Martin S

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13 hours ago, Martin S said:

Hi, what are the internal dimensions and the thickness of the cabinet walls? 

Hiya

18in h x 10in w x 3/4 in thick.

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Posted (edited)

Hi, I had a think about how you could use those cabs,hopefully you gave me internal measurements and they were accurate, which I converted to cm. I don't know what your level of DIY is so I've kept it simple [there isn't any!] but to be honest there's not a great deal you can do with them due to the two 10 inch (25.5 cm) measurements. I think the best use for these in order to max out the available space is to sit them on a surface so that you're looking directly down on them as if you were standing over the photo below, with LP/12" to the left, CD's to the right. To stop the LP's at the back getting damaged [as the back wall of the unit is 2 inches less than an LP] you'll need to cut a square of hardboard or similar to place behind the last record. With what I've proposed in the hand drawn plan below, if you have plastic sleeves on your LP/12's then they're going to be quite tight to the CD's, although that depends how accurate the measurements you gave were. I can't see as your units would be good for 45's as the 10 inch measurements are inconvenient. 

Approx measurements: 12"/LP 31.5 cm square, with protective poly sleeve 32 x 32.5 cm

7" in standard paper sleeve 19.5 cm square. CD's in standard casing 14.5 x 12.5 cm

 

P1080146 - Copy.JPG

Kenb 1 001.jpg

Edited by Martin S

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Cheers for that Martin.

After picking up a few bits from B&Q I had already made a start on my own, but do appreciate you taking the time to do and send your plan.

 I'll drop you a photo when finished ( probably a week)

atb

Ken

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11 minutes ago, Kenb said:

Cheers for that Martin. After picking up a few bits from B&Q I had already made a start on my own, but do appreciate you taking the time to do and send your plan. I'll drop you a photo when finished ( probably a week). atb, Ken

Ken, please don't tell me you're making a TV stand with them! 🤣

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