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Buen Camino! 2019

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Good luck 

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Dia Uno / Day 1

“un lugar de mucha importancia”

”A place of much significance”

Firstly because it’s a ‘Bonita’ city and secondly because Swamp Dog and Joe Bataan will be playing here in October...  Estoy muy emocionado por eso!!! 

Had great evening tonight with Alex S, and his son.. enjoy those Euros young man. It was great to meet another ‘Kent Generation’ kid, you know who you are 69/70/71/72...

sitting in a bar listening to screaming Jay Hawkins so will leave you wanting more!! Lol 

hasta luego... mal 🙂

 

 

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Dia Dos / Day two

“pies frescos, ahora pies muy cansados” 

The early train from Bilbao to Logrono leaves shockingly early, and although the station was awash with early morning commuters I felt as if I stuck out.   “Bilbaoians” if there is such a thing are used to Peregrinos, less used to the carridge of noisy Chinese child musicians I was now crammed between. I’d have taken a picture but because their instruments took every bit of space I sat with my ‘Mochilla’ on my lap 😳 all the way...

Once arrived, getting onto the route can be perilous game, blindly following  Peregrinos can get you in all sorts of muddles especially in large towns where you can’t just follow your shadow west.  I was right ten or so walking carrier bags all went of piste as soon as I found them, ha! I’m the daddy!!! 

By 10am I’m leaving Logrono and on the Camino proper, the park that the Camino follows out of the city is absolutely stunning, I walked around a large lake then started to climb, that’s when the heat hit, it is sweltering out there today, at least 30 degrees in the direct sun. 

I discovered a Camino De Santiago  Rose, which is beautiful I have to say, saw a herons nest on top of a chimney stack, all manner of Spanish graffiti, which is always good, and walked with a German Truck Driver who swore every step I walked with him,  doesn’t bother me but you accept the silly games albergue owners play on unsuspecting pelegrinos, we followed signs for Casa Rosa stating 2k, Phone ahead for a bed for at least 6/7k today, when I finally realised they were another 2k off the main route I couldn’t be bothered, you never know where you might end up. 

Im now in a place called Ventosa which is 21k from my start, showered,  cloths washed and hung, fed with tortilla and cafe Americno and sharing an 8 bunk room with most of Germany, I’ll persist using spanish so they can’t single me out! 

Adio

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You meet some characters on the ‘path’ this is Marcelino Lobato “El Peregrino”  sells a good selection of fruit, all donatiivo... 🙂 

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Posted (edited)

sounds great - would like to do something similar.......  a far cry from the coastal towns I bet

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Great stuff Mal, interesting read again matey. A few people I know did part of "the walk" and came back with various shell tattoos! A few to many vino tintos I fancy...thank you...Rob

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Hey Rob, how are you?  thanks for the comments, a tattoo, well I’m in Bilbao again next Saturday, if a whim takes me a shell doubling as a soul fist perhaps? Maybe an owl with shells for eyes, equally tasteless!!  

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Ha-ha!!! I'm well Mal thank you....keep posting matey it's really interesting....hmmm maybe not a tattoo then..the folk I know we're spannered and did the usual "I know what we should do"!!....Rob

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Lovely photographs....

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Dia Quatro / Day four

lluvia, lluvia y más lluvia!

Rain, more rain, and because you received the first two so well, you get another helping of rain!

James Bond doesn’t put up with this ‘shit’ if it had been Bond he’d have broken out of the convent, stolen a fast car and be in Burgos supping Pina Coladas with the Israeli lady with Italian sun glasses! 

As it was I was turned out by the nuns at 6:30 and after some intense refurbishment with my waterproofs,  Vamos! We go... 

what started as a bit of rain turned into a persistent pour, then it lashed down, not wanting to bring down the general decorum, after three hours of hard walking when rain is running between your cheeks, it’s time to get into the dry! 

No such luck I’m afraid, all the cafe owners must have thought ahhhh, let’s sleep in. The first that did however had blankets and lashing of hot food ready, he did roaring business! 

Met up with ‘Jim and Fanny’, currently posing as the pope, see below pictures, also now bunking with Carlos from Barcelona who persistently asks Danny for a light, it’s become an ongoing joke, nice guy... Met Mike an ex Oil executive for Chevron who lives in Texas, a lovely guy from Moscow, who’s name I can’t pronounce, he’s a sound mixer for production companies, and some really funny folks from Germany who are also finishing up in Burgos a day after tomorrow.  There is nothing like receiving instructions from Germans, maybe because I’m English with Castilian intentions, my own illusion,  I find it so entertaining, I just reply in Spanish cause it’s a language they can’t get their tongues around... seriously though  we all walk our own path here, but as pilgrims are all in this together and the one resounding blessing is people’s openness to talk and for a short while become the best of friends 🙂 

What can I say about the scenery, it’s beautiful but as you can’t stare up into a rain cloud I missed allot of it today, still if you take Glastonbury Torr, times it by twenty you get an idea of the terrain.  

I did find a statuette of Dominic Garcia (Biloria De Rioja 1019) though, there he was welcoming me as I entered Viloria de Rioja, I have acquired photographic evidence in case you thought I’d stepped in the bullshit! 

Indeed I stated photographing interesting doors as I thought today might be a washout visually; at home I have a cast of the ‘Hand of Fatima’,  the original of which adorns the main arch at the ‘Alcazaba’ the main defensive fortification at the Alhambra in Granada.  Anyhows it’s struck me if I build my own place, which we aim to do, I could nip over and buy one of these doors cheap from a semi derelict building, there are loads of them here, build round the shape which will be pre standardisation, and pop ‘Fatima’ over the doorway...

Eternal defence against all evils! 

Adios amigos, todos estamos en esto juntos! 

Malcolm  

 

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Hey up Mal,

Loving this. My outlaws have done the Camino a few times ( i think 3 separate occasions to to do the full Spain and Portugal length), My Father in Law is planning a solo expedition later this year. He is a keen photographer too, i'm going to show him your exploits. 

All the breasts mate.

Mark

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Gracias senior, it’s an experience and ‘muy’ addictive!  Currently playing polka with a Turk, a Brazilian, Americano y inglis mojer! Lol.  Just for beans for now...😇

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3 hours ago, Mal C said:

Dia Quatro / Day four

lluvia, lluvia y más lluvia!

Rain, more rain, and because you received the first two so well, you get another helping of rain!

James Bond doesn’t put up with this ‘shit’ if it had been Bond he’d have broken out of the convent, stolen a fast car and be in Burgos supping Pina Coladas with the Israeli lady with Italian sun glasses! 

As it was I was turned out by the nuns at 6:30 and after some intense refurbishment with my waterproofs,  Vamos! We go... 

what started as a bit of rain turned into a persistent pour, then it lashed down, not wanting to bring down the general decorum, after three hours of hard walking when rain is running between your cheeks, it’s time to get into the dry! 

No such luck I’m afraid, all the cafe owners must have thought ahhhh, let’s sleep in. The first that did however had blankets and lashing of hot food ready, he did roaring business! 

Met up with ‘Jim and Fanny’, currently posing as the pope, see below pictures, also now bunking with Carlos from Barcelona who persistently asks Danny for a light, it’s become an ongoing joke, nice guy... Met Mike an ex Oil executive for Chevron who lives in Texas, a lovely guy from Moscow, who’s name I can’t pronounce, he’s a sound mixer for production companies, and some really funny folks from Germany who are also finishing up in Burgos a day after tomorrow.  There is nothing like receiving instructions from Germans, maybe because I’m English with Castilian intentions, my own illusion,  I find it so entertaining, I just reply in Spanish cause it’s a language they can’t get their tongues around... seriously though  we all walk our own path here, but as pilgrims are all in this together and the one resounding blessing is people’s openness to talk and for a short while become the best of friends 🙂 

What can I say about the scenery, it’s beautiful but as you can’t stare up into a rain cloud I missed allot of it today, still if you take Glastonbury Torr, times it by twenty you get an idea of the terrain.  

I did find a statuette of Dominic Garcia (Biloria De Rioja 1019) though, there he was welcoming me as I entered Viloria de Rioja, I have acquired photographic evidence in case you thought I’d stepped in the bullshit! 

Indeed I stated photographing interesting doors as I thought today might be a washout visually; at home I have a cast of the ‘Hand of Fatima’,  the original of which adorns the main arch at the ‘Alcazaba’ the main defensive fortification at the Alhambra in Granada.  Anyhows it’s struck me if I build my own place, which we aim to do, I could nip over and buy one of these doors cheap from a semi derelict building, there are loads of them here, build round the shape which will be pre standardisation, and pop ‘Fatima’ over the doorway...

Eternal defence against all evils! 

Adios amigos, todos estamos en esto juntos! 

Malcolm  

 

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More lovely photigraphs....

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Dia Cinco / day five 

“Don’t let the old man in” 

“Many moons I have seen, my body is weathered and worn, ask yourself how old you would be if you didn’t know what day you were born”

Be young, be foolish, be happy...

After walking today I’ve met up with Mike from Texas, and having got to    “  where ever it is we are  “ by 11am, 25k from Belorario, we took our seats at the bar, and we have been there ever since.  Outside of meeting all manner of folk off the trail, in I would say a ‘loose’ deposition , he’s made my day, especially when I said here’s a song from 69 that I love, and as I played it on my iPhone he knew every word... 

nuff said...Oct 69 🙂 

liza remember this in Miami? Lol 

 

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2 hours ago, Mal C said:

Dia Cinco / day five 

“Don’t let the old man in” 

“Many moons I have seen, my body is weathered and worn, ask yourself how old you would be if you didn’t know what day you were born”

Be young, be foolish, be happy...

After walking today I’ve met up with Mike from Texas, and having got to    “  where ever it is we are  “ by 11am, 25k from Belorario, we took our seats at the bar, and we have been there ever since.  Outside of meeting all manner of folk off the trail, in I would say a ‘loose’ deposition , he’s made my day, especially when I said here’s a song from 69 that I love, and as I played it on my iPhone he knew every word... 

nuff said...Oct 69 🙂 

liza remember this in Miami? Lol 

 

Bizarrely it's in two films that I've watched over the last couple of weeks, "Annabelle" and Clint Eastwood sings along in "The Mule".

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Mike says “oh shit I’m seeing double” !  Lol. 

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Dia Sais / Day six

“Para aprender español tienes que leatn charla de almohadas...”

 

what a day it was, I’m at the bar of the small alberge we stayed at yesterday, worse for ware but very happy, Mike and I did the big one, and I can state with absolute certainty we out drank everybody in here yesterday, even the small group of pilgrims that have had that title every day, a group we know as the Rat Pack... they can walk faster, drink harder, but we won the battle here, we settled the bar tab at 24 drinks by 1pm,  then another four times before we called it a night, that’s a well earned record right there!!! Lol 😂 

So that takes us to today, a 26k walk into Burgos, it’s a little cold but good weather for walking, after loosing my way and walking a good 4K in the kind of right direction, I worked it out and hitched back to the trail, 4+4 = 8k I really didn’t want to add to the 26 unless I had to.

Great views from the top of today’s biggest top, to be honest I’m gonna leave the pictures to do the talking ‘porque me tengo mucho dolor en mi pies’  I ache, man I ache!! 

Although folk to watch out for tonight, I’m meeting Peter from Germany, sun from South Korea, Mike from Texas and Charlotte from Seattle, any of the Japanese Group, as they are a scream, at any one of the bars opposite the cathedral, one of my favourite places in the world💃🏿 It is stunning here...people to watch out for we don’t want turning up, Greta from Norway, a sixty something lady who is obviously very rich, that’s all she goes on about, but she has the hots for Mike big time and he’s having none of it...lol

pictures below, the rat pack, Mike me and crazy Italian dude, the boss at the albergue last night ‘Juan- Garcia’ views😳more views and lots of graffiti which I love... check the albergue mural for perigrinos, weighed down and kicking back...

Burgos is a great City, I’m here tonight and tomorrow so I’ll post about the history and why I think it’s the best city in Spain.

till a bit later then...

adio.

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Dia Siete / Day seven 

‘Me encanta este Ciudad, es la caña’. 

 

Woke up feeling a whole lot better this morning, feet still sore and I’m hobbling a bit but allot less pain than yesterday.

So firstly nipped our for breakfast and witnessed a blessing of a large Motorbike club this morning in front of the cathedral, you would not get that ‘Protestant’ Britain would you...

So a ‘mucho’ (brief) history of Burgos cathedral follows, its creation on the site of an earlier Roman cathedral as with all cathedral towns created the wealth and status that Burgos enjoys today. 

Cathedral de Santa Maria de Burgos, as it is named in Spanish is the blueprint for all Castilian cathedrals, the design and style of which was taken from the great French cathedrals such as Lau and Notre Dame in Paris, created in the new gothic style; however many chapels were added well into the 15th and 16th centuries which are in the baroque and renascence styles.   

Building began in 1221 but the cathedral was not consecrated until 1260. Further events moulded the sites importance such as the royal wedding between Ferdinand III of Castile and Elisabeth of Swabia and subsequently made the city the capital of the Kingdom of Castile-León, and an important stop on the route of the Camino De Santiago bringing pilgrims, trade and wealth. 

Today Burgos is a stunning place to visit, a place which boasts a catholic populous,  mixed with estudiantes, pilgrims and touristas its a great place to visit:-)

I almost forgot, remember the Charlton Heston film ‘El Cid’? Well he was buried here as well, and I’ve popped a photo of his coffin below....

Buen Camino 🙂 

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Dia Siete / Day seven 

Last entry...

Im travelling back to Bilbao by train in about an hour, so just time to sum up. 

I Just had a text from mike, he’s bussed it to Leon to continue his march to the coast, said he wishes I was with him... and to be honest I’m nearly in tears writing this, in fact I am in tears, but I’m drinking some ‘especial’ kicking back which is what it’s all about...im glad I met him and all the other folk I’ve mentioned in this blog.

but Duty calls and hopefully if he’s game he will be out here next year... I know I will...

some of this may ignite the ‘pilgrim’ in you, some it’s a million miles from what you may think a holiday is, but as I said last year, if you think this blog anywhere near entertaining, then maybe you should walk the way of Saint James from the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compestella. 799km along the northern coast of España, without doubt one of the best things I’ll do every year for as long as I physically can....

‘Esta mi mas grande cinquenta este ano’ and liza has already agreed we should scrap our plans in October and come out here... 

Fookin Fabuloso !!!   Bit of Spanglish for you and a rouges gallery below...

adio, Buen Camino, luego...

Malcolm  

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Fantastic stuff Mal!! Thank you for the blog/write ups and fab photos. I've enjoyed it very much....safe journey home......Rob

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Cheers Rob... train was late by 40 mins and we are now sitting in a siding at a place called ‘ Miranda de elbro’ with half the carriages having a fag outside, going no where soon then 😂  lol

M

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great stuff enjoyed your  tales & photos good read. Safe trip home.

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Cheers I really appreciate it 🙂 gotta feed myself now then bed... !!

mal

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